For a meal this week, Sean prepared and roasted 25 lamb shanks. And I was there both days to observe and smell the wonderful aromas.
My cooking notes: 25 Lamb shanks (New Zealand hind quarter shanks) soaked/marinated in cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel wine for two days and then the meat was dried, pan seared (all sides) and put in a roasting pan. To the drippings in the pan, add chopped carrots, onions, celery, roma tomatoes, garlic, fresh herbs and a bay leaf. Add the marinade juices with beef demi glace and bring to a boil. Pour the reduction over the shanks and roast for two hours. After roasting, take that braising liquid and puree in blender = gravy for your roasted meat which will now fall off the bone. This meat is traditionally served Italian style with polenta; however, also good with mashed potatoes or hearty pasta.
My photos:
marinated in red wineVeggies into the sauteé panadding the marinating liquidadding the beef demi glace
ready to be roastedveggies, meat, and liquid go into the oven
I was told today’s weather is excellent (it’s maybe in the 40′s and overcast – but not raining); people wave in the streets. Time is life and not a debt. Though that could be the vacation talking…
This day has been a wonderful tour of the region: me, my car, open gravel roads, and some good tunes. I’ve been having a hard time putting my finger – so to speak – on a description. Part fronteir land, part midwest, but rolling hills and farms, and friendly open people, but small communities. The grey (muted tones) wooden houses remind me of New England. The waves and polite chit chat of the South. The tied-to-the-landness of tradition and acceptance of life remind me of rural Germany. The great foods and wine of a major city. The insuation that 20 minutes out of town is a far drive, but a two mile walk up hill not worth driving of Rhode Island. I don’t get it, but I feel welcome and am having a great time.
commissioned artwork at coelho
Coelho Winery – a Portuguese family with strong roots and sold out wines. I was able to try a chardonnay, a few reds including the new-to-me varietal Marechal Foch whose grapes apparently have pink fruit, the wine was dark and tasted of sour juicy fruit. Impressive were their ports (leave it to the Portuguese).
johanjohan vineyards
Johan Vineyards was my biodynamic stop of the day. Recommended multiple times, you definitely have to be up for a little adventure and want to taste wines to get there (very long, one lane, curvy driveway with a gate. They make 2500 cases a year, use native yeast fermentation and both their winery and their vineyards are certified biodynamic. While I was visiting, the woman I tasted with recommended the book Voodoo Vintners. My favorites of their wines: 2009 Reserve Chardonnay had excellent body, was creamy but not buttery. 2009 Pinot Noir spent one year in barrel and is recommended to age another 3-5 years in the bottle. Nose of oak, fruit, and baking spice. Palate of medium acidity, light tannin, elegant and light body, good balance and distribution of flavors.
love the map labels
With 20 minutes to spare before the close of business, I headed to Johan Vineyards’ neighbors: Left Coast Cellars. They have a café, a nice atmosphere, and seating. Last year they made about 5000 cases. I tasted a Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and a few Pinot Noirs and was treated to a dark chocolate to taste with their 2008 Latitude 45 Pinot Noir, a djion clone which had a strong earthy character.
I first heard about the Willamette Valley last winter while I was working at a boutique wine shop in Newport, RI. We were teaching a small wine class on Pinot Noirs and our small collection of world famous regions included a couple from this valley in Oregon. Willamette! Damn it!
oregon vineyards
After I learned how to pronounce it correctly, I started reading about this little wine oasis and looked up episodes on grape radio. Fairly new and definitely prosperous, it sounded like a bit of a gold mine and out of my current price range. A year later, I find myself in Northern California a day’s travel from Oregon. And so as the pieces slowly came together that made this trip possible, I made sure to plan a day to taste my way through some of these pinots.
Through one of those the-world-is-really-smaller-than-I-realize circumstances, my best friend’s brother-in-law’s friend is a winemaker in the Willamette Valley. And so, my first appointment of the day was with winemaker Brad at Illahe Vineyards. Brad started as a grower with his father, selling premium grapes to neighboring wineries. A few years ago, he decided to get into the production of wine, and has created some delicious results and started some great traditions. For example, during harvest the grapes are picked by hand, put into bins, and the bins brought up the hill by horse and cart to the presses. Illahe produces four whites (Pinot Gris, Viogneir, Gruner Veltliner, and Riesling) and Pinot Noir. Multiple Pinot Noirs. That was a pleasant surprise for me while tasting around the Willamette Valley. Each winery I visited didn’t just have one stellar pinot noir as part of their portfolio, they had multiple in different styles. Pinot Noir is king here and varied. At Illahe I had the privilege of tasting from the barrel – the wines to be. A lovely variety of pinots ranging from elegant to robust. We also tasted his select 1899 label. A wine he is creating by using wine making methods that were used in 1899.
illahethe press
Next, my travels through this beautiful, rolling hill greenland brought me to Van Duzer Vineyard, a family estate with 86 planted acres, where my host Luke was kind enough to explain the area and taste me through their entire line of wines currently available (some are already sold out). My favorites: 2009 Estate Pinot Noir, a blend of nine different clones by winemaker Jerry Murray. The wine itself was presented in a special Riedel glass with a distinct shape created especially for the Williamette Valley. A great purple ruby color this wine had cherry, cinnamon and clove on the nose. The palate was elegant, lighter body; creamy but light with a lovely lingering finish. This wine was what I enjoy in a Pinot Noir. Cheers. I tried a number of other pinot noirs and what struck me was the attention to detail, for example each description of the wine included the specific clone variety planted. My other favorite here was the 2009 Estate Syrah. 55 cases produced, purple ruby color, nose of smoke, grass, and white pepper; palate medium tannins, juicy, earthy – not wet rock or mushroom but laying in a pasture watching the cows walk by. Excellent quality.
the green viewvan duzerport and the oregon pinot glass
I had packed snacks for the road, but upon recommendation I headed to The Blue Goat in Amity for lunch. Very reasonable menu; beautiful setting and seating. Local wine list, and this time when I write local, I mean local as in practically neighbors. The first 60% of the menu, Willamette Valley pinots. And then to mix it up “other local reds.” They also have a list of brews with tasting notes. Food arrives: food of my dreams. Which sounds crazy, but I swear I dreamed about a similar recipe a few years ago – feeling a similar wave length here. Pulled pork sandwich and apple bourbon BBQ sauce, some sort of aioli (I should have written down the description from the menu) and perhaps a touch of cinnamon in the dough of the grilled bun? Served with a winter squash soup with a dollop of sour cream and chopped chives. Oh and a few slices of their own baked bread. I ate everything in front of me. Delicious.
The seminary was founded in 1889 by Abbot Adelhelm Odermatt – German sounding name, Swiss dude. Friends I was staying with recommended I take the time to check out the seminary, especially its architecture and museum. So late afternoon on my first full day in Oregon, I drove (apparently most in town walk) up the hill, and from the first moment I turned in it was enchanting and definitely had a European feel. Specifically, it reminded me of the black forest. You head up hill and the driveway is lined by a small forest of very tall evergreens. If you look closely you see goats meandering through and feeding.
The top of the hill, once I got past the amazing view of the valley, has a compound or campus of buildings. Among them a museum with quite the eclectic collection, including a number of taxidermal animals. We’re talking polar bear and bald eagle. Large animals and seemingly (I don’t see them every day) rare animals. A whale rib and native artifacts from around the world. And historical adorned vestments. Like getting to walk through everyone’s living room who has lived and studied here at the seminary.
mt angel seminaryview of the valleycool door
a little green on a grey dayfrom the monksrain drops on a wet benchanother look
Last week in the kitchen I observed a lunch of Sean’s that left me with two thoughts: color and inspiration. His food definitely has that visual appeal (as you’ve noticed in the photos). Which lead me to ask him where he finds inspiration in creating these delicious dishes. His answer: in the market and personal cravings. I asked about inspiration when my mouth started watering at the descriptions of this meal. Turns out, for this meal there was also a dietary restriction to consider: gluten-free.
salad prep
First course: A salad of house (or in this case winery) garden greens and radicchio, tomato, cucumbers, and orange vinaigrette with local goat cheese, roasted sweet pepper cuolis duo, and warm polenta croutons.
Second course: Grilled flat iron steak marinated in Simi’s Landslide wine, garlic oil, and fresh herbs, topped with a balsamic bacon, caper and onion “tapenade” and served with Sebastopol mushroom and garlic smashed yukon gold potatoes and broccoli rabe.
Final course: Vanilla crème brûlée with fresh blueberries and a pecan chocolate chip cookie.
Note: this menu was gluten-free. Alternatives included using garbanzo bean flour to bread the polenta croutons.
sweet pepper coulis duo
First course notes – Sweet pepper coulis duo: peppers were roasted until the skins were black and blistered. The black then cleaned off and the peppers sautéed with garlic and shallots. Then pureed in the blender and a little water added for consistency (while still preserving the flavor). This salad has color!! and is built with layers – complexity of flavor: the peppers sweet, the vinaigrette sauce tart, the greens bitter, the cheese creamy. The greens were tossed in the orange dressing and then lightly salt and peppered to taste. Plated with the pepper sauces, chive oil, greens, polenta croutons, goat cheese crumbles (livened with lemon zest, fresh herbs, salt and pepper), cucumbers, parsley, and scallions. The salad was served with Simi’s Sauvignon Blanc.
the salad
Second course notes – Potatoes are melt in your mouth good and of course make you want more without the overdone spicy zing of whole fresh garlic. The mushrooms were tossed with scallions and lightly sautéed and then added to the smashed potatoes. The scallions have the potential to turn brown if in the warm potatoes too long; so add them shortly before serving. Served with the Landslide Cabernet Sauvignon blend. The “tapenade” is gold. The meat supple and the broccoli vibrant. As for the “tapenade” who knew I would ever enjoy a caper – very well balanced.
steak
Final course notes - . I didn’t have any. I will ask Sean for his recipe, but otherwise the presentation and taste said it all. So, I’ll let my photos do the talking.
I recently made a trip to Oregon. I had the best time and when it wasn’t pouring I was able to snap some photos and rain or shine taste some famous Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs. Experiences I look forward to sharing with you and so will do a little serious of posts on Oregon.
First up, road trip north. The trip to Oregon, specifically to the Willamette Valley, took about 11 hours. Lots of scenery to check out. Minus the white out at the border (top elevation at about 4000 ft), I got really excited to see snow on the side of the road. Northern California has shown me a fair amount of rain (though no thunderstorms) and lately wind and the occasional frost, but no snow. And sometimes I miss that smell in the air, the dry chill, and soft flakes. So, I saw snow. Here are the photos to prove it:
I recently had the pleasure of meeting up with some girlfriends for a tasting day through the Carmel Valley. What a great day. Fortunately our host took one for the team and was our designated driver which for the rest of us meant we could up the ante and hit one more winery. This area definitely exceeded my expectation and had for me, whole new tasting experiences. A little background: the Carmel Valley is located in Monterey county south of San Francisco. Carmel Valley is one of seven appellations (AVAs) in the county and is nestled in the Santa Lucia mountain range.
First stop: Chateau Julien Winery
Chateau Julien
The winery and tasting room were beautiful and had a very open (lots of windows) and European feel. We were welcomed and tasted through what they offered, though we were a little disappointed we didn’t get to try some of the varietals that were displayed like Gewurtztraminer. This winery makes about 60,000 cases/year and sells mostly through their tasting room, but does distribute around the country. The best of the tasting was actually their flagship wine the Private Reserve Merlot. Even nicer was the setting. We had packed a picnic lunch and were able to sit outside, eat, and enjoy the scenery.
courtyard
Next we were off to Heller Estate Organic Vineyards. They own 1000 acres and all the grapes they use for their wines are estate grown. In addition they dry farm (no irrigation) and hand harvest. They are also the oldest winery in Carmel Valley. We received a warm reception and had a chance to taste through their wines. Notable: the 2009 Malbec definitely had that “wow” factor. great deep but bright color and wonderfully balanced on the palate with a strong finish. I also put a star next to my notes for the 2006 Merlot port “beautiful tawny color. tastes like candy.” Smooth. The 2008s almost across the board were ashy/smoky. Apparently that year they had wild fires to contend with which left smoke hanging over the vineyards resulting in the black smoky finish on the 2008 wines. You either love it or hate it, but it is unusual and a testament to the natural essence of their wines.
heller estate
heller tasting room
Next we stopped at a newer winery: Boekenoogen Wines (Dutch name). Their oldest vines were planted in 1996 and their first label was in 2006. They had a selection of Chardonnay, Pinot Noirs, and Syrahs to share with us. My star went to their 2009 Estate Chardonnay: nose of baking spice and green fruit, palate – yum and unexpected.
winery
My favorite stop of the day (the venue, the hospitality, the wide selection of wines, the patience with my insistent note taking): Bernardus. Needless to say I recommend stopping in for a sample. Wow factor: 2010 Griva Sauvignon Blanc (including 3% Semillion) was estate fruit. The wine had an intoxicating nose and wonderful body and flavor. I was there to taste and didn’t want to buy any bottles, but I broke down and bought this bottle. The only bottle I purchased that day. They also make a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc from that vineyard which was beautiful. And they’re not even known for their whites. Their flagship wine: Marinus a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc.
tasting bar
thanks for a great girls' day out in wine country!
A couple weeks ago I ate at the tastiest restaurant. Ever. Upon recommendation of a few friends, I headed to the Ferry Building in San Francisco.
Sea gull by the Ferry Buildingto the ferry building
It was Saturday and the building itself was surrounded by a sea of farmers market tents. Inside were specialty shops to get excited about. It reminded me a bit of Europe: a butcher, a cheese shop, a baker, a chocolate shop; I could go on, but I did have my camera with me:
mushroomsplace I want to go back and check outlove the tag line
This is a place to get some great looking food. A little here, a little there, or even better – on the far side of the building (facing the water) sit down for a good meal. I was with friends and we headed to The Slanted Door. A restaurant first recommended to me for its wine list (apparently the appropriate hook to get me into the city).
The Slanted Dooron the bay
This was my first introduction to Vietnamese food and all I can say is if you are any where near San Francisco and aren’t trying to see the city on $5/day, eat here. The food was so very flavorful with great texture, color, and variety. And, of course, you’ll be drooling over the wine list as well. Many German, Austrian, and French wines offer crisp companions to the food. Not to mention an opportunity to try new grape varieties and taste the minerality of European terrior as it compliments the Asian cuisine. Score one for globalization. Delicious.
my plate: first course
papaya salad and 2010 Austrian rieslingsteak mushrooms and garlic saucewith riceperhaps my favorite dish: light omlete with bean sprouts that you wrapped in lettuce leaves.
This Monday I offer you some more lovely food photos. A couple weekends ago I had the opportunity to walk through the Larkspur farmers’ market. And wow, this is the fanciest one I think I’ve ever been to. This town seems to have gotten themselves organized. All the food was beautifully presented (what happened to the days of buying out of the back of the farmer’s truck in an empty parking lot?) and also exceptional was the variety. On a good week, I start my food shopping at the farmers market and then on the way home I stop at the grocery store to round out my meal/get the ingredients I want but weren’t available at the market. In this case, however, Larkspur offered hungry shoppers a variety of fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, bread, cheeses, flowers, food carts where you could by lunch, handmade goods from jams to hand sewn kitchen towels, live music, and a big craft area for kids, oh and a petting zoo. I could’ve easily stayed for hours and stocked up for the week.
Continuing my series of getting to observe and learn in Sean’s kitchen at Simi Winery, I went to the kitchen this past week for a dinner: dinner for seventeen wine-industry guests.
red sweet pepperslightly roasted cauliflower
The Menu:
Roasted salmon chowder
Grilled lamb loin with creamy Parmesan polenta, vegetable medley, and Sebastopol exotic mushroom demi-glace
Honey crisp apple and brown butter tart with maple whipped cream
“A simple and straight forward menu.” This lead us to a conversation about Sean’s food mantra: “less is more” and “let the food shine.” He went on to explain that the more ingredients and complex a dish is, the more difficult it is to pair with wines. I don’t know about you, but this was music to my ears. Source great ingredients and you don’t need magic, just talent and respect; “let the food shine.” Cheers!
chowdersean preparing the chowder
1. The chowder inspiration/thought: creamy chowder with a deconstructed salmon cake on top: chopped sweet peppers, chives, chive oil, sour cream. The salmon was seasoned with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Roasted and then flaked. In his chowder (mostly prepared before I arrived) Sean included carrots, onions, celery, corn, red sweet peppers, chillies for a little heat, country ham, chicken stock and shrimp stock. He used a rue (flour and butter mixture) as well as starchy potato water to thicken. Separately, he cooked cubed russet potatoes and butternut squash. They were kept separate to maintain their structural integrity and texture. At the last moment, whisk in some heavy cream and add potatoes. Sean also added some lemon juice to cut the bitterness in the paired chardonnay.
chowder toppingsvoilathe chardonnay
2. Polenta = 4 parts water : 1 part polenta. Salted water, rapidly boiling, whisk in the polenta (no clumps, baby). Slow cook at a light simmer – stirring regularly for 45 min to an hour. And then oh, the possibilities. Sean instructed that you can “zing it up” by substituting 1/4 of the water for chicken stock or milk. Then even more interestingly, you can finish the polenta by adding cheddar cheese, confit garlic, mushrooms, caramelized onions, or fontina and the list goes on – add these at the very end after it’s thickened. In this version Sean added salt and pepper, butter, and freshly grated parmesan. In addition – if you were looking for another variation you could spread out your polenta in a container or sheet, cool, and then substitute for pasta in your lasagna. The wonder of our friend Polenta. Oh, or cut up the next and pan fry.
marinated lambgrill
Our star: the lamb was marinated overnight in garlic, fresh parsley, sliced onions, fresh thyme, and olive oil. The loins were laid out over a rack allowing some of the excess marinade to drip off. After a few minutes the lamb loins were salt and peppered on both sides. They were then laid on a hot cast iron grill plate (grilling indoors with cast iron = cast iron rocks). On the grill, seared and smoking then flipped in the opposite diagonal direction, “x” marks the spot… The smells. Ahh, the smells. The steam and smoke gently wafting them in this direction. Oozing through the air, stirring my hungry senses… The lamb was seared and then finished in the oven to medium-rare. The meat was then allowed to rest before slicing and serving.
Fun fact: the only use for the microwave in this kitchen is to heat/warm the dinner plates.
The vegetables had been previously prepared/blanched/lightly roasted were then sauteed together in a large pot with minced garlic and parsley in butter. Salt and peppered. And then cold water was added to just barely cover the bottom of the pot. Plating: veggies spread out, polenta in the middle, lamb and sauce on top. The chef presents his art with each meal. That is to say the plated food is served and with the final one (host/hostess’ plate) Sean walks out to introduce the guests to the food in front of them: appreciation with a dose of anticipation. As I sometimes think of it, a great opportunity to shake the hand of the person who feeds you – farmers. chefs. happy. Needless to say, after the third and final course, Sean received a round of applause.
main course
3. It turned out honey crisp was the type of apple from Washington state. These beauties has a wonderful texture when raw – crisp when you bit in, but then began to break apart and melt in your mouth, both tart and sweet: great for baking and a tasty treat. For the tart dough Sean mixed flour, sugar and butter (think crust). Then he made a brown butter schmear of brown butter, sugar, egg, and vanilla bean. The apples were sauteed in butter and sugar. Construction – dough was rolled out, smeared with the schmear, and the apples layered on top. Crust was folded back up over the top – think rustic tart (or look at the photo). Heavy whipping cream was whipped in an electric miser. Then the maple syrup was drizzled in and mixed by hand, gently but thoroughly with a whisk. Canadian, grade B syrup at a rate of about two tablespoons of syrup to one cup cream. Sean also made a strawberry nectarine puree for color when plating. One bite of the tart left little for want and he served the slices of tart as their own show piece.
Welcome to Monday Baker. I love to bake, eat, dance, laugh, travel, cook, and enjoy the outdoors. Check back or subscribe below for some humorous posts, delicious recipes and awesome (I'm wonderfully bias) photos.
